The Radial-Arm Saw

The major tool that I use most—the radial arm saw–is probably the least familiar to any woodworker under 40 years old. When I bought my Craftsman, way back in 1976, I did a fair amount of research, and no little puzzling as to what I should buy. I had used table saws in school, and when learning to build cabinets while in college. But the radial arm looked like it would do even more, so that is what I got. The radial arm saw was a very popular tool then. But in the years since, it has fallen out of use so much, there is only one company in the U.S. that still makes them (plus a couple overseas), and the U.S. company makes only large, industrial models.

I think radial arms saws got a bad rap. Many woodworkers found the saws hard to adjust, and hard to keep in adjustment. Admitted, if you don’t check it regularly, the saw will get out of adjustment. That is partly because it will do so many things. The ability to move to various positions also allows for some of that movement when you don’t want it. A table saw cannot move all those various ways, so it stays adjusted.

You also need to know how to handle the unique cutting style of the radial arm saw. It cuts from above the piece, with the blade pulling into the wood. A member of our wood-workers club commented, when he heard how I use the radial arm saw: “The most dangerous tool in the shop.” I would disagree. You do have to learn the knack of pulling the saw toward you through the wood without letting it get away from you, and if you hurry you will get in trouble. But if you learn how to use the saw, it is hard to beat.

However, I do not see how anyone can safely cut pieces as small as I do with anything else. I often cut pieces 3/4″ or less on the short sides.

The advantage of the radial saw is the column that holds the radial arm. With that column, you can raise or lower the head of the saw. Unlike the modern miter saw (which has pretty much replaced it), with the radial arm saw, the blade moves parallel to the table, not down through it. That’s perfect for such things as cutting dadoes for shelves in bookcases, or things like that.

It also makes it possible to make an auxiliary table to set on top of the regular saw table. I make one with two fences on it: one at 90 degrees, like the regular fence, and one at 45 degrees, so I can cut the triangles for my quilt patterns. (I will have instructions on how to make that jig on the website soon.)

If you are serious about building wooden quilt patterns, I suggest you try to find a radial arm saw of the 1970’s-1980’s era. If you look online, you will find three kinds of saws.

§ One will be the industrial grade saw. The one I found sells for over $4,500, and that’s a little much for what we do here.

§ You will probably find some modern saws that are called radial arm saws, but they will not be the same. They will be radial miter saws, working much like a conventional miter saw, but with an arm that increases the range of the saw, and thus the width of a piece that can be cut.

§ And you may find, probably on Ebay or Craig’s list, a used one. I know of two owned by family and friends: my step-son has one that was his late father’s, and a friend has one in storage that has seldom been used since he built his house with it more than 40 years ago. (That one is mine if I need it for parts.)

Sears was a major source for these saws back in the 70’s and 80’s, and there were two different styles. I much prefer the one that has the on/off switch right next to the handle. If you run into problems when using the saw, all you have to do is hit the switch, right there at your thumb, without moving your left hand from the piece you are cutting, or your right hand from the motor handle. The other has the switch on the end of the radial arm. I guess you could hit the switch with your chin, if you needed to, but I never could understand why that design.

There were others besides the Craftsman saw, but I believe it was the most popular.

I saw one on Ebay recently that had no stand or table, but it looked—in the picture–to be in pretty good shape. It was the “switch at the handle” style, and was for sale for $200.

I have seen on youtube a jig used to cut wooden quilt pieces on a table saw, but I doubt you could cut the tiny pieces I do that way. If you know of another way besides the radial arm saw, let me know, and I will pass that information along